The dematerialisation of colour: On the creative and ecological consequences of expanded colour spaces

Abstract

By the end of the 19th century, advances in textile colour chemistry had made colours accessible to large sections of society. Colour became the most obvious characteristic of textile objects and the first that could be changed seasonally, if not more frequently. A highly specialised industry emerged, creating new professional disciplines such as colour management, colour control and colour forecasting, along with new, highly specialised tools. Colour charts bear evidence of the developments in this field, as they act as interface objects in a multidisciplinary and now globally active value chain.

The text discusses how colour decisions are made in design, using colour charts as an example. The text argues from a historical perspective. Colour charts have always been used for communication purposes. However, as the colour spectrum has expanded, the appearance of colour charts has also changed. While they used to be primarily a sales tool and marketing tool for innovations, today they represent the self-evident nature of colour in design culture. The aim is to demonstrate that colour became increasingly dematerialised over the course of the 20th century. Whereas colour was once considered a physical substance that determined specific work processes, today it appears as something immaterial that can be adapted at will.

At the same time, the text illustrates how throughout the past century technical possibilities and with them accustomed design practices go hand in hand with environmental damage. It becomes clear that the current approach to colour in design systematically ignores the significant environmental damage that occurs, mostly outside of the global north. Taking into account the ecological consequences of these developments, the contemporary use of colour will be criticised. Colourants must be considered in terms of their physical substance, enabling well-founded colouring decisions to be made in comparison with eco-design strategies. Assuming that the design process can significantly contribute to avoiding environmental damage, this text will reflect upon the suitability of past colour-related design practices and the potential of changing these for the future.